How Much Are My Baseball Cards Worth?

Have some old baseball cards you’re wanting to get rid of? Check out this blog post to see how much your cards are worth!

Introduction

In the world of baseball cards, there are a lot of things that can affect how much your cards are worth. Age, condition, rarity, anddemand are all major factors. However, one thing that is often overlooked is the type of baseball card.

Not all cards are created equal, and some types of cards are worth a lot more than others. In this guide, we’re going to take a look at the different types of baseball cards and how they stack up in terms of value.

What to Look for When Appraising Baseball Cards

When appraising baseball cards, the most important thing to look for is the condition of the card. A card in mint condition will be worth more than a card that is damaged. The age of the card is also important. A card from the 1950s will be worth more than a card from the 1990s. The rarity of the card is also a factor. A card that was produced in limited quantities will be worth more than a card that was produced in large quantities.

Age

One of the first and most obvious things to look for when appraising baseball cards is the age of the card. Cards from the early 1900s are going to be worth more than cards from the 1980s. The older the card, the rarer it is, and the more valuable it will be. If you have a baseball card from before 1950, it is considered to be an antique, and it will be worth quite a bit more than a card from later in the 20th century.

Condition

Condition is the paramount factor when it comes to the value of a card. Simply put, the better condition a card is, the more it’s worth. A mint condition card can fetch 10 times (or more) what the same card in poor condition would sell for.

Card collectors use a 10-point grading scale to determine condition, with “10” being Gem Mint (a pristine card); “9” being Mint; “8” being Near Mint/Mint; “7” being Very Fine; “6” being Fine; “5” being Very Good; “4” meaning Good; “3” meaning Fair and finally, “2” and “1” representing Poor and Junk conditions, respectively. Most importantly, when appraising your cards, be as critical as possible and don’t over-grade them — collectors are very savvy and can spot a fake from a mile away.

Here are some general guidelines to help you grade your own cards:

Mint (10): Perfection. Like new with no visible flaws or wear. Must be free of staining, tear marks, creases or other imperfections, with borders that are well-defined and corners that show only the slightest hint of wear if any at all. The print quality on the front and back of the card must be flawless, and the surface must have an exceptional luster.
A Mint card is impossible to find in circulation — if you come across one, chances are it was kept in mint condition since it was first manufactured.

Near Mint/Mint (9): Like new with only slight imperfections visible upon close inspection. May have slight wear on borders or corners; ever-so-slight fraying; minuscule print blemishes; slight off-centering on either side. The surface should retain much of its original gloss. Overall appearance should be attractive and attractive despite any minor flaws. again, a Near Mint/Mint card is unlikely to be found outside of hobby shops or specialized collectors’ websites.

Very Fine (7): Excellent condition with only minor wear visible upon close inspection of the naked eye. May have mild fraying on borders or corners; light scuffing on surfaces; small print blemishes or slightly off-center aligned fronts and backs. The surface should retain most of its original gloss but may have lost some luster over time due to age or wear-and-tear from handling.. A Very Fine card is an excellent choice for anyone looking for solid investment potential without spending a lot of money up front.

Fine (6): Above average condition with noticeable but not severe wear visible upon casual inspection.. May have moderate fraying on borders or corners; light creasing; minor surface scuffing or chipping; print blemishes or slightly off-center fronts and backs.. Surface gloss may be noticeably dulled but all images and text should still be clearly visible.. A Fine card is often a good choice for budget conscious investors who don’t mind doing a little bit of ‘elbow grease’ to restore their cards to peak condition..

Very Good (5): Well played with but definitely still presentable.. Heavy wear on borders or cornersobvious creasingsurface scuffingimages fading in areas ; moderate discoloration ; major print defects.. Surface gloss will likely be significantly dulled but all images and text should remain reasonably clear.. This is generally considered the minimum acceptable grade for vintage cards dating back before 1970 although modern day equivalents can often still fetch decent prices in this condition due to popular demand from casual fans and young hobbyists just starting out..

Rarity

Rarity is, quite simply, how many of a certain card were printed. A common card from 2019 Topps Series 1 might have been printed 50,000 times, while a scarce insert card might have been printed just 1,000 times. The law of supply and demand dictates that the less available a card is, the more it’s going to be worth to collectors.

Here’s where things get tricky: Just because a card is old doesn’t mean it’s rare. In most cases, older cards are actually more common than newer cards because there were fewer collectors back then and manufacturers didn’t produce nearly as many cards. A 1985 Topps Mark McGwire rookie card might be worth $20 because there are thousands of them out there. A 2019 Topps Fernando Tatis Jr. rookie card might be worth $200 because there are relatively few of them in circulation (at least for now).

Player

The most obvious factor is the player. A Hall of Famer or other superstar will always be worth more than a player who was only average or who played for a short time. The key here is to remember that popularity doesn’t always equal value. Some players who were hugely popular when they played, such as Pete Rose and Joe DiMaggio, may not be worth as much as other, less popular players. That’s because there are so many of their cards out there. The law of supply and demand comes into play here. The rarer the card, the higher the value.

Where to Sell Your Baseball Cards

There are many places to sell your baseball cards, but the two most common are online and brick-and-mortar stores. Each has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it’s important to know the difference before you sell. Online, you’ll have a wider audience but will likely get less for your cards. Brick-and-mortar stores will give you less exposure but may pay more for your cards.

Online Auctions

Online Auctions: This is probably the most popular option for selling baseball cards these days. You can reach a large audience of potential buyers and there are very low listing fees. The downside is that you will have to wait until the auction is over to get paid and there is always the risk that your item might not sell. The two most popular online auction sites are eBay and Heritage Auctions.

Local Card Shops: Another option for selling your baseball cards is to take them to a local card shop. The advantage of this is that you will usually get paid immediately in cash or store credit. The downside is that the card shop will likely offer you less money than you could get by selling it yourself online.

Private Sale: You can also try selling your baseball card privately, either online or in person. This can be a good option if you want to get a higher price for your card and you don’t mind waiting a bit longer to find the right buyer. The downside of this option is that it can be more difficult to find a buyer and there is always the risk that you won’t find one at all.

Baseball Card Shows: Another option for selling your baseball cards is to take them to a local card show. This can be a good option if you want to reach a large number of potential buyers in one place. The downside is that you will likely have to pay an entry fee to sell at the show and there is always the risk that your item might not sell.

Local Stores

Local stores are a great place to start when you are looking to sell your baseball cards. However, it is important to keep in mind that local stores typically do not offer the same amount of money for your cards as online buyers or larger chain stores would. In addition, many local stores have specific policies in place regarding the types of cards they are willing to purchase, so it is always a good idea to call ahead or visit the store’s website before making the trip. Here are a few local stores that purchase baseball cards:

-Dave & Adam’s Card World: Dave & Adam’s is a large chain store that buys and sells baseball cards, as well as other sports cards and memorabilia. They have locations across the United States, so chances are there is a store near you.
-Play It Again Sports: Play It Again Sports is another large chain store that specializes in sports equipment and gear, but they also purchase baseball cards. They have locations throughout the United States and Canada, so finding a store should not be difficult.
-My husband owns a comic book/baseball card store
-Most mom and pop type shops will also purchase baseball cards

Card Shows

Most large cities will have at least one monthly or bimonthly card show. These are large collections of dealers that set up shop in hotels or convention centers to buy, sell, and trade cards and collectibles. Card shows can be great places to find deals on cards, as well as a wide variety of items to choose from. They can also be overwhelming, particularly for first-time attendees. Before you go to a show, do some research online to see if there is a list of vendors that will be in attendance. This will give you an idea of what kind of items will be available and whether the show is worth your time.

Conclusion

Now that you know the answers to the question, “How much are my baseball cards worth?,” it’s time to do some more research on your own. Take some time to look up the value of your cards online, in magazines, and at sports card conventions. Once you have a good idea of what your cards are worth, you can start to make some decisions about whether or not you want to sell them.